Los Quetzales National Park; 3-4 miles, Moderate (elevation of walk is 8,200 feet). Optional; Savegre River Waterfall, 3 miles, easy
The tour begins this morning by heading south from San José on the Pan American Highway, until recent years, the only main road leading south from the capital. The Pan American Highway climbs into the Talamanca Mountain Range, which stretches nearly 200 miles between San José and Panama, and is also the day’s destination, site of Los Quetzales National Park and La Amistad National Park, which straddles the border of Costa Rica and Panama. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983 for its unique character and geography, the Talamanca range is the third most diverse biological hotspot in the world, providing a habitat for the interbreeding of both North American and South American species of flora and fauna. As you wind your way along the road, climbing Cerro de la Muerte (part of the Talamanca Mountain Range) from the north, you follow the Continental Divide, with alternating vistas from the Pacific to the Atlantic coasts.
This two-hour drive takes you into the heart of rural Costa Rica, unchanged since the road was built in the 1950s. Turning off onto a side road, you arrive at the home of Eladio and Maria Salazar. A park volunteer, born and raised with this high montane cloudforest as his backyard, Eladio accompanies you on the day’s walk, but first, he and his lovely wife welcome you into their home for delicious tico (Costa Rican) coffee and a small snack. Afterward, you set off with Eladio into Los Quetzales National Park. Extending over 12,000 acres, this national park is Costa Rica’s newest and protects significant portions of the Savegre River watershed, which you follow from the mountains to the coast on this tour. Los Quetzales is aptly named for the stunning resplendent quetzal, frequently sighted in the park. In the heart of the Talamanca Mountain Range, with the highest peak at 11,000 feet above sea level, the park comprises tropical oak cloudforest and sub-alpine vegetation. Here many different members of the plant community are familiar because of their close affinities with temperate zone relatives.
The first walk takes place in the Quetzales Paradise farm owned by the Serrano family and also part of the Quetzales National Park—one of the few sites awarded by the Costa Rican Government with the Blue Flag for its conservation efforts in watershed protection. You walk amid a forest of tall oak trees, centenary mountain cypress, and magnolias, among many others, their branches and tree trunks hung with hundreds of epiphytes. This magical landscape is in a constant mist that covers the canopy almost year round, creating the unique cloudforest habitat, with famous resident birds such as the elusive resplendent quetzal, the beautiful but noisy emerald toucanet, and the elegant violet sabrewing. Animals occasionally seen in the area are two-toed sloths, spider monkeys, mountain rabbits, kinkajous, coatis, spiny green lizards, and gray foxes. It is important to note that this first walk of the week takes place at an elevation of 8,200 feet and weather can be variable—please be prepared with layers.
You arrive at the family-owned lodge that is your home for two nights, and whose founders were the first pioneers to arrive and establish a farm in this scenic valley in 1954. In addition to welcoming guests to their lodge and extensive grounds, they also grow apples, plums, and peaches, all served at the lodge’s restaurant. The proud recipient of “four leaves” (out of five) from the Costa Rica Tourism Institute and their Certification in Sustainable Tourism Program, their hard work and efforts are evident, and by staying here you support their good work. The best part—you are welcomed in absolute quality and comfort in your lodging and dining!
Later in the afternoon you may join your guide on foot from the hotel for an easy walk along the Savegre River, named the cleanest river in Central America, to a refreshing waterfall, or you may wish to stroll the grounds on your own, admiring the beautiful gardens and colorful hummingbirds flitting about, such as the volcano, fiery-throated, or magnificent hummingbirds. You also have the options to go horseback riding or revitalize with a spa treatment at the new facility along the Savegre River (the second two options are at your own cost). You gather for dinner this evening at the lodge’s Las Bromelias Restaurant, where you may try freshly caught trout from the river, cooked to perfection.
H. Junkin, New Hampshire, November 2011
Exceptional, beautiful & rewarding.