Transfer from Bangkok to Paro to Thimphu. City walking tour of Thimphu; 3-5 miles, easy

The flight into this spectacular part of the world is like no other. The green wall of hills, known as dooars, are gateways into Bhutan from the plains; they climb continually higher as you fly north toward the Tibetan border. Silvery rivers thread the valleys, waterfalls plunge down the forested mountainsides, and, to the north, the great snowcapped peaks of the inner Himalayas rise up into the sky. Upon arrival, transfer to Thimphu. Once a rustic village, it is now the capital of Bhutan, and sits in a broad, fertile valley of the Wang Chu River. Compared to Paro and Punakha, Thimphu is a bustling city, although a relaxed one, with a population of only 50,000 and the world’s only capital without a single traffic light.

After checking into your hotel, which is surrounded by a towering pine forest and situated just outside Thimphu, you enjoy a traditional lunch before exploring Thimphu on foot. Your walk takes you among its many interesting sights; Thimphu Dzong (seat of the government and main monk body), the policeman directing traffic, a local archery match, crimson-robed monks, Indian laborers, and gho-clad (traditional dress) professionals. Thimphu has a youthful exuberance and a wonderful juxtaposition of the old and the new. Afterwards continue your exploration in search of the perfect traditional weaving in a handicraft shop.

Returning to the hotel, you gather for an orientation meeting and welcome dinner of Bhutanese cuisine—selections include red rice, fresh asparagus, momos (dumplings), and, for those wanting a spicy option, there is ema datsi (cheese and chilis).

Jigme Dorji National Park and Cheri Goemba; 3 miles, moderate with an elevation gain of 750 ft

A short drive up the Thimphu Valley to the road’s end at Dodena is the entrance to Jigme Dorji National Park, one of Bhutan’s revered wildlife sanctuaries. From here you cross the Thimphu Chu over a covered wooden swing bridge, adorned with hundreds of prayer flags. You then begin the ascent to Cheri Goemba, a small monastery perched on the hill with a view over the Thimphu Valley. This monastery was built in 1620 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the man responsible for many of Bhutan’s most historic dzongs and monasteries. It is here that he established the first Bhutanese body of Buddhist monks, and scattered across the hillside are many small meditation huts where the devout monks and their students can seclude themselves for extended periods of meditation. Take off your shoes and visit the tiny temples and shrines within the complex. Feel the spiritual atmosphere and ambience.

Following a transfer back to Thimphu and lunch at a local restaurant, you have the opportunity to visit the School of Traditional Arts and Crafts, the National Library, the newly built Textile Museum, the Heritage Museum, and the Handicrafts Emporium, displaying the rich traditional crafts of the kingdom.

Dinner this evening is Asian-Bhutanese cuisine at one of Thimphu’s finest restaurants.

Transfer to Punakha. Temple of the Divine Madman; 4 miles, easy to moderate

The first stop, after approximately 1½ hours of driving, is at Dochula Pass at an elevation of about 10,000 feet, where, depending on the cloud cover, you may have initial views of the high mountains. Here a short walk leads past rare Himalayan plants, flowers, and birds, especially in the spring, and perhaps even a grey langur or red fox may be spotted.

Arrival in Punakha. This town, situated at an altitude of 4,430 feet, served as the capital of Bhutan until 1955 and is still the winter capital for the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot) and the main monk body. Blessed with a temperate climate and fed by Pho Chu (male) and Mo Chu (female) rivers, Punakha is the most fertile valley in Bhutan. The climate allows for two rice crops per year, and is also suitable for growing fruit, with oranges, bananas, and guavas in abundance.

This afternoon you walk through a small village to Chimi Lakhang (the Temple of the Divine Madman). Lama Drukpa Kinley, more commonly known as the “Divine Madman,” is one of Bhutan’s favorite saints. He traveled throughout Bhutan and Tibet using songs, humor, and outrageous behavior to dramatize his teachings, believing that the stiffness of the clergy and social conventions were keeping people from learning the true Buddhist teachings. This site is still believed to hold fertility powers for women. From the vantage point of Chimi Lakhang, you take in the spectacular views of the Punakha Valley.

Chorten Nebu Temple; 6 miles, moderate with an elevation gain of 1,200 ft

The walk this morning begins on a quiet country road, before climbing steeply over a rough trail as you make your way through terraced fields of rice to the local Chorten Nebu Temple. Perched high on a hilltop with spectacular views of the Mo Chu Valley below, Chorten Nebu is over 200 years old and houses the images of the future Buddha and the statues of Kagyupa monks, Guru Dorji Chang and Mahakala. It is believed that long before the Chorten Nebu Temple was built during the time of the Divine Madman, this area was the meeting place of demons. One day when the Divine Madman passed by, he saw a meeting of all the demons and evil spirits. He picked up a burning piece of firewood, with which he was able to scatter them, never to be seen again. From the burning firewood grew the old oak tree, which still stands today near the temple. From this tree sacred talismans are made to adorn the necks or the belts of children and livestock to keep them healthy.

After lunch you continue descending through small villages. With magnificent views from the temple, it is easy to understand why many consider the Punakha Valley to be one of the most beautiful in Bhutan. Although steep in places, the trail from Chorten Nebu towards the valley floor is wide and well defined, as it is frequently used by local people visiting the temple, as well as children walking to and from school.

Khamsung Yuely Namgyel Temple to Punakha Dzong; 7 miles, easy to moderate

Following breakfast and a drive through the Punakha Valley, your walk begins with a series of switchbacks to the Khamsung Yuely Namgyel Temple. From the viewpoint at this majestic temple, you are afforded grand views of the Mo Chu River Valley below. Your walk descends from the temple and follows a well-worn path down the valley through rice fields and small villages. Along the way are stunning views, with terraced rice paddies, providing a lush backdrop to the river below. You continue walking to the Punakha Dzong, which was constructed in 1637, and was the second of Bhutan’s dzongs and for many years its seat of government. From this spectacular setting you can look back to see the Khamsung Yuely Namgyel Temple perched on the hillside far in the distance.

After a picnic lunch on the lawn of the temple or perhaps in a local farmhouse, you continue with a short walk from the dzong to your waiting bus, and the return trip to the hotel. Dinner tonight is in a local restaurant where you can sample many of the traditional dishes.

Optional day in the Gangtey Valley (an approximate 2-hour drive there and 2-hour drive back), or Pochhu River Trail; 4-6 miles, easy

You rise early this morning for a full-day optional visit to the incredible Gangtey Gompa, also known as Phobjikha—an enormous glacial valley along the western slopes of the Black Mountains. This broad valley is a natural reserve for an endangered species of crane—the black-necked crane, of which only 300-400 remain in the world. This species is revered by locals as the “birds of heaven,” and they honor them with ceremonies of “welcoming” in November and “farewell” in early March. As a mark of respect for the cranes, the government decreed that no electric poles should ever be installed in the valley. Because the cranes feed on dwarf bamboo roots growing here, there are also restrictions on building and development in the valley. If the timing is right, there is a chance that you will be there during the welcoming ceremony, which occurs in the courtyard of the 16th-century Gangtey Monastery. As the cranes flying overhead begin to circle down and return to their millennia-old wintering grounds, thousands of people gather, and local children dressed in crane costumes sing and dance to honor the birds. If it not possible to see the ceremony, you can still spot the cranes nesting and flying overhead—an amazing and serene sight. You will take a walk today along a valley trail which passes local farmhouses and with many opportunities to meet the locals and interact with the children. After enjoying dinner in a local restaurant or farmhouse you embark on the journey back to Punakha. It takes about two hours to return, so it is a long day, but this valley is so amazing and remote that it is well-worth the time spent in the bus.

If you do not want to take the excursion to the Gangtey Valley, another walking option is available near Punakha. Follow a trail along Phochhu River, starting near the second longest suspension in the world, just above Punakha Dzong. This earthen packed trail is also used for mountain biking and continues along for several hours, bringing you through the villages of Nebtenkha, with lovely views of the surrounding valley. You stop for a picnic lunch along the banks of the river, then after lunch cross the Samdinkha Bridge, keeping your eyes peeled for the highly endangered white-bellied heron along the water’s edge. You continue along a flat farm road, where you eventually find your waiting bus. If you would like to extend your walk, an additional two-hour, more moderate option brings you to Thamjee village.

Transfer to Paro. Royal Botanical Garden to Dochula; 6 miles, moderate

After leaving Punakha, en route to Paro, you enjoy a walk through a forest with temperate vegetation. Arriving at The Royal Botanical Garden, which is 8,800 feet above sea level, you take a short walk around the small lake, where you may spot a red panda, one of the rare animals in the Himalayas. After enjoying a visit through the gardens you set off west towards the Dochula Pass. The trail takes you along switchbacks and under a canopy of trees where you may even spot an elusive pheasant. After walking for approximately two hours you reach the pass and arrive at a small teahouse, where you can eat lunch and drink tea. Meeting the van here, you transfer to Paro, our last stop on this incredible adventure. The Paro Valley is steeped in rich culture, scenic beauty, and hundreds of myths and legends. It is also home to many of Bhutan’s oldest temples and monasteries, the country’s only airport, and the National Museum.

After settling into your comfortable accommodation, there is time to relax before a dinner of local specialties in the hotel restaurant.

Chelila to Kila Gompa; 7 miles, moderate to challenging, 700 ft elevation gain (easier walking options available)

After breakfast you board the bus for the 1½-hour drive that climbs almost 5,000 feet above the valley floor to the Chelila Pass, one of the highest automobile-accessible passes in Bhutan at over 12,000 feet. From here you can view Mt. Chomolhari (24,000 feet), Mt. Tshering Gang (22,700 feet), and Mt. Jichu Drake (22,300 feet). The more challenging walking option begins here with a steady hour-long ascent. For those who prefer an easier route, there are shorter walking options to a propitious place for hanging prayer flags. Both groups meet for lunch, and then set off on the three-hour (mainly downhill) route. An approximate one-hour walk in a northeasterly direction brings you to the base of Kila Gompa, where a meditation retreat center is perched on the edge of the cliff. There is ample time to visit this nunnery monastery, which is nestled beneath a craggy patch on the mountainside. The nuns here lead an undisturbed life of religious studies, prayer, and meditation. On departing this temple, you walk along an undulating trail that brings you to the rendezvous with the waiting bus.

Bhutan’s National Museum to Taktshang; 4 miles, challenging with an elevation gain of 1,650 ft

This morning you have the opportunity to visit Bhutan’s National Museum. Situated at the top of the hill above the Paro Dzong, the museum is located in what was originally the dzong’s watchtower. It boasts an interesting collection of thangkhas (painted or embroidered religious pictures), textiles, weapons, armor, household objects, and a rich assortment of natural and historic artifacts.

Following the museum visit, you walk to the most famous of Bhutan’s monasteries, Taktshang, perched on the side of a cliff, 2,800 feet above the valley floor. The 8th-century historical figure, Guru Rimpoche, is regarded as the second Buddha and believed to have had miraculous powers, including the ability to subdue demons and evil spirits. Taktshang is translated as “tiger’s nest,” and Guru Rimpoche is believed to have flown on the back of a tigress to the site of the monastery, where he then meditated in a cave for three months.

The well-traveled trail ascends a series of switchbacks through juniper and pine forests, until reaching a teahouse, which provides spectacular views of the Paro Valley below and the monastery above. You eat lunch here and follow the trail onward to a viewpoint at the same level as the monastery (approximately 9,950 feet). Conditions permitting, it may be possible to walk all the way into Taktshang, which is truly a highlight.

This evening a farewell dinner will be held in the hotel’s restaurant, where you can chat with your fellow travelers about your wonderful Bhutanese adventure.

Departure from Paro

This morning your guide(s) will accompany you to Paro Airport, where you will say goodbye to your newfound friends and board your flight to Bangkok.